Italian Winter Reds
DECEMBER 2023
Winter reds could go several directions when talking about Italian wines. Dry, aged grapes such as Nebbiolo from Piedmont come to mind as do Sangiovese wines from Tuscany, but we're doing something different this month.
We've selected wines that are a little fuller-bodied with good fruit, not too dry or too acidic to serve as a glass without food. (How un-Italian!) But of course, they are wonderful when paired with a dinner meal, and we have some suggestions below. So have fun. You're getting Cesanese from Lazio & Primitivo from Puglia. Enjoy!
Lazio & Cesanese
The volcanic soils around Rome are more known for producing white wines than reds, but don't overlook Cesanese (pictured below), an indigenous red grape from this region. It's a late ripening, low-yield grape with an elongated form. Cesanese is known for being medium- to fuller-bodied with medium acidity, medium tannins and flavors of dark cherry, plum, spice, and a pleasantly bitter note on the finish.
Primarily a local table wine, Cesanese is enjoyed with the world-famous, peasant cuisine of the area: meat sauces & stews (using up the entire animal with a focus on offal), pasta dishes (carbonara, cacio e pepe, penne all'arrabbiata & more), salumi, cheeses.... the list goes on.
Casale del Giglio, founded in 1967 and still run by the son of the founder, produces a wide range of varietals. Estate vineyards & cellar pictured above.
Casale del Giglio 2020 Cesanese
Lazio, Italy // Reg $18.99 | WINE CLUB $14.99 | Mixed Case $11.99
100% Cesanese. Small red berries, a little spice, earth & cranberry on the nose. Very smooth. Flavors of red berries, blue & blackberries, pomegranate. Spice & very fine tannins on the finish. Medium-bodied. Really fun wine. Drink now to 2 years.
The winery offers a suggested recipe to pair with this wine:
Spezzatino di Bufaletta dell-Agro Pontino
= Agro Pontino Valley Water Buffalo Stew
*Italian Mediterranean Buffalo is an indigenous breed of water buffalo
Soften an onion in olive oil, add the meat cut into small pieces and sauté in its own juices. Add a little white wine, chili, salt and water and cook over a low heat until the meat is ready. Add a clove of garlic crushed with a little vinegar, cover and simmer for a few minutes. Serve with seasoned sprouting broccoli.
Our suggested pairing is braised pork cheeks served over parsnip purée topped with mustard greens & apple horseradish relish. Magic.
Puglia & Primitivo
Puglia is the long, narrow region that forms Italy's heel of the boot. This relatively flat, fertile peninsula has hot, dry summers and mild, rainy winters.
The region supports lots of agriculture including 40% of Italy's olive oil production. The cuisine has a focus on locally grown grains, fresh fruits, nuts, vegetables (eggplant, tomatoes, artichokes, almonds) used in pastas, gratins and stews. Seafood is also a staple.
The grapes that flourish in this area include (reds) Primitivo, Negroamaro, Aglianico, Bombino Nero & Nero di Troia and (whites) Falanghina & Fiano. Across the board, these wines are approachable and affordable, intended to be enjoyed with everyday fare.
Photo: Primitivo from neighboring estate Felline. We carry their Primitivo as well if you are curious.
Palazzo Malgara 2020 Primitivo di Manduria
Puglia, Italy // Reg $17.99 | WINE CLUB $14.99 | Mixed Case $11.99
100% Primitivo. Beautiful herbal, earthy notes followed by blackberries, black plums. Dark fruit on the palate. Lots of blackberries, black raspberries. Orange rind acidity. Fun wine. Great to sip or enjoy with Mediterranean dishes such as ground lamb with saffron rice, hummus & olives. Drink now to 2 years.
We get this wine from a co-op that does great work for a very reasonable price. You can try Nero d'Avola & Nerello Macalese from them as well, both from Sicily.
Wonderful winter reds from Italy. Hope you enjoy!
Cheers,
Jens Strecker, Owner
Portalis Wine Shop