Bodegas Catena Zapata
MAY 2024
Located in Mendoza, Bodegas Catena Zapata is one of the founding fathers of high-altitude grape cultivation in Argentina. Nicola Catena, an Italian immigrant, arrived in Argentina in 1898 and planted his first Malbec in 1902. Until then, Malbec had only been grown as a blending grape in Bordeaux. Catena believed that it would thrive at higher altitudes as a single varietal wine. His son, Domingo, increased the family's vineyard holdings to become the largest in Argentina. But it wasn't until Domingo's son – Nicolás Catena Zapata – took over that their place in history was cemented.
In the early 1980's (despite political and economic turmoil in Argentina), Nicolás has the good fortune of a sabbatical in economics at the University of California Berkley. During that time, he visited California's wine country extensively and left impressed with how the Californians were challenging the Europeans with top quality Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. He returned to Argentina inspired to do the same thing with Malbec.
At that time, Argentina & Chile only made bulk wine. Nicolás "sold his table-wine-producing company, keeping only Bodegas Esmeralda, the fine-wine branch of the family's winery. Many of his colleagues in Argentina told Nicolás flat-out he was “completamente loco” (completely crazy)."
Unperturbed, he set out to locate the best locations to plant vineyards in Mendoza. "In 1992 he settled on Gualtallary Alto: at 5,000’, it’s the highest and westernmost spot in Tupungato, cool, but protected from frost to some extent by the nearby mountains. It has a slight slope and a small hill. He called the vineyard Adrianna after his youngest daughter."
Told that the grapes would never ripen at that altitude, Nicolás proved everyone wrong. The poor quality soils near the Andes were perfect for growing grapes with slow ripening, naturally low yields, and few pests because of the altitude. The vineyards were magic for Malbec.
From his first Catena vintage in 1994 to being named the World's Greatest Vineyard in 2023 with many 99 & 100 point wines along the way, the winery has been showered in awards. Today, Nicolás' oldest daughter, Laura, is the current managing director of the estate. She is also a practicing emergency room physician having earned an undergraduate degree at Harvard and a medical degree at Stanford. She is pictured above with her father.
I had the pleasure of meeting Laura Catena in 2006. Then, a couple weeks ago, the importer was in town, and we tasted through the entire Catena Zapata lineup – maybe 20 wines including their high-end 5000 ft vineyard Malbec (which we now also carry if you are curious - vineyard pictured above). I knew immediately that some selection of these wines would be featured in your next club. And the winners are: Malbec, Semillon-Chenin Blanc blend, and (for the 3-bottle club members) Cabernet Franc. So delicious. Hope you enjoy!
2-BOTTLE CLUB
Catena 2021 Appellation Paraje Altamira Malbec
Mendoza, Argentina // Reg $27.99 | Mixed Case $22.39
100% Malbec from the Paraje Altamira appellation in the Uco Valley in the southwest of the Mendoza province. Vineyards located at 3,613 feet with loamy soils. Fermented in stainless steel tanks. Aged in French oak barrels for 6-8 months (25-40% new, rest 2nd & 3rd use), then 10 months in bottle before release. Alcohol = 13.5%.
Red & black plums. Earth. Herbs. Super inviting nose. Smooth flavors of plums, blackberries. Elegant, complex. Medium-bodied to fuller. On the finish, mineral notes again. Fantastic wine. In Argentina, you'd enjoy this wine with a piece of beef. But the wine would be delicious with many dishes from grilled salmon to roasted chicken to lamb to richer, baked vegetable dishes. Drink now to 5 years.
Catena 2022 White Clay Semillón-Chenin
Mendoza, Argentina // Reg $27.99 | Mixed Case $22.39
"Semillón and Chenin Blanc used to be the two most widely planted white grape varieties in Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza´s historical region for premium wines. Semillón came to Argentina in the 19th century and was planted in field blends with Malbec as it was in France. A century ago, the blend of Semillón and Chenin Blanc constituted the classic white wine of Argentina." –winery notes
Blend of 60% Semillón & 40% Chenin Blanc from the appellation of Luján de Cuyo. Elevation 3117 feet with clay rich soils. Aged 7-8 months on the lees in neutral oak.
Deeply aromatic, like you're walking through a Meyer lemon grove, note of peach. Flavors add in citrus and a clay-minerality. Medium-bodied. Good acidity. But soft. Wonderful wine. Drink now to 3 years. Enjoy with halibut sautéed with butter, herbs & asparagus.
3-BOTTLE CLUB
Catena 2021 Appellation San Carlos Cabernet Franc
Mendoza, Argentina // Reg $27.99 | Mixed Case $22.39
100% Cabernet Franc from the family's San Carlos vineyards in the Uco Valley. Elevation 3576 ft. Loamy sandy soil. Aged 6-8 months in French oak (30-40% new). Alcohol = 13.5%.
Earthy, herbal on the nose. Red berries. Forest berries – red & black, blueberries then black cherries. Black pepper, minty finish. Good structure. Noticeably drier than the Malbec. Drink now to 5 years. Enjoy with pâté, roasted pork shoulder, lamb gyros, and dishes with legumes.
Wines are fabulous and perfect for this time of year with the grill getting activated. Enjoy!
Cheers,
Jens Strecker, Owner
Portalis Wine Shop