Loire Valley
JUNE 2024
France’s Loire River — the longest river in France & the 3rd longest river in Europe — runs north from Mont Gerbier de Jonc in the Massif Central (see diamond above on the map) turning west about half way and heading to the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The second half, the east-west portion of the river from Sancerre to Saint-Nazaire, the town at the Loire estuary, is what’s known as the Loire Valley.
The Loire Valley has several distinct areas: the Western Loire (mustard on the map) is famous for Muscadet which grows in the vineyards around Nantes on the Atlantic Ocean, Anjou-Saumur (mint green) is known for Chenin Blanc & earthy Cabernet Franc, Touraine (beige) grows wonderful Sauvignon Blanc & Gamay, and then you have the most inland/eastern appellations which are some of the most famous (Sancerre) and some of the most obscure.
Your June club features a white (Sauvignon Blanc), a red (Pinot Noir) & an orange wine (Pinot Gris) from three areas you may have never heard of – Quincy, Reuilly & Saint Pourçain. The wines are interesting, fun, and perfect for this time of year. Hope you enjoy them!
2-BOTTLE CLUB
Quincy
In 1936, Quincy became the first AOC in the Loire Valley and the second in France (after Châteauneuf-du-Pape). It's located to the west of the town of Borges near the Cher River, a tributary of the Loire River. It has chalky soils with warmer, comparatively dry summers and colder winters than the regions closer to the Atlantic.
Bothers Antoine and Yves Lestourgie (together with their wives Florence and Géraldine - pictured top) run Domain de Chevilly. They inherited the farm from their parents and in 1994 decided to plant vines. Today the estate has 12 hectares of Sauvignon Blanc vines in Quincy and 1 hectare of Pinot Gris in neighboring AOC Reuilly.
Domaine de Chevilly 2022 Quincy
Loire Valley, France // Reg $26.99 | Mixed Case $21.59
100% Sauvignon Blanc from vineyards made of Kimmerdigin limestone with oyster traces (“marne à huitre”) and limestone-clay and flinty-clay. Nose of earth, chalk, limestone, grapefruit, white peach. Complexity is amazing. Laser-beam acidity. Fruity flavors of yellow plums, grapefruit, peach. Absolutely killer wine! Drink now to 2 years. Winery says to enjoy with grilled fish, seafood, exotic cuisine, goat cheese, and la galette de pommes de terre, a savory potato cake.
Saint Pourçain
While Reuilly & Quincy are only 10 minutes apart, AOC Saint-Pourçain is a 600 hectare pretty darn obscure appellation near the village of Saint-Pourçain-sur-Sioule (fuscia on the map). It is located almost 2 hours southeast of the first two villages, in the Auvergne region of France and is considered a Loire satellite. It has some of the oldest vineyards in France, and scholars make an argument that it has a stronger historical tie to Burgundy than to the Loire Valley. Grapes produced are Chardonnay, Pinot Noir & Gamay.
The Grosbot-Barbara estate was formed in 1996 when Ellie Grosbot asked Denis Barbara join her family estate, founded in 1910. Denis Barbara came from a line of winemakers in Saint Pourçain and had just finished his viti-oenology degree in Burgundy when Ellie asked him to team up. He has converted the estate to organic farming and his dynamic approach to winemaking has created him a following.
Domaine Grosbot-Barbara 2022 Chambre d'Edouard Saint Pourçain
Loire Valley, France // Reg $31.99 | Mixed Case $25.59
100% Pinot Noir from Saint-Pourçain. Nice nose of red berries and earthy, herbal notes. Red berries, elderberries, blue- & blackberries on the palate. Medium-bodied. Good acidity. Soft tannins. Smooth. Super-interesting wine. Best fruit right after opening. Gets earthier over time. Drink now to 2 years. Great summer red. Sip slightly chilled or serve with grilled fish, summer pasta dishes or a charcuterie plate for a light evening meal.
3-BOTTLE CLUB
Reuilly
Sharing a border with AOC Quincy to the north, AOC Reuilly has sandy-gravelly and clay-limestone soils and is one of the driest regions in the Loire Valley, which makes for refreshing Sauvignon Blanc. This area also grows Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris which is often used to make orange wine.
Gérard Bigonneau and his daughter Virginie (pictured above) run Domaine Bigonneau, a long-held family estate. Gérard made a huge investment in the 1980's, planting new vineyards and expanding their estate to 16 hectares. In 2006, Virginie, who had been the oenologue at the co-op in Brinay and who had worked in Champagne, Burgundy and Alsace, returned to manage production at their estate, which has since grown to 20 hectares. They cultivate Sauvignon, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir.
Gérard Bigonneau 2021 Gris de Gris
Loire Valley, France // Reg $19.99 | Mixed Case $15.99
100% Pinot Gris from limestone soils in AOC Reuilly. This wine as a salmon color from skin contact, what we fondly call today an orange wine. Subtle red berry fruits, white peaches, lemon. Crisp and minerally with a soft, dry finish. Drink now. Great for sipping or enjoy with a salmon dinner.
We’ve been looking for the right wines for a Loire Valley club for years, and we are delighted with these. Hope you enjoy them, too!
If you’re not in the club, but you’d like to be, here’s more info & our online sign-up>
Cheers,
Jens Strecker, Owner
Portalis Wine Shop